When we traveled to Sicily for the first time in 2015, our first stop was not just Palermo, but the old town district of Albergheria. A small BnB right next to the historic Mercato di Ballarò. We now have our own BnB. This is also located at this very special market, the Ballarò. Coincidence? Or does what's due fall into place?

But what distinguishes the Hamburg Fish Market, Pike Place Market in Seattle, Borough Market in London and not forgetting Ballarò from other markets? Which are the most beautiful markets?

When it comes to markets, people only seem to agree to disagree. Everyone seems to perceive markets differently. - Paradoxical, isn't it?

After all, isn't it markets like the Ballarò where people have been meeting for centuries to talk, gossip and trade?

We believe that it is the people who make a market special. On the one hand the traders, on the other hand the visitors and buyers.

The Ballarò not only changes throughout the day, but also throughout the year. In Germany, we are used to a market where everything is always available at any time of year. The disadvantage is that the goods are often not of the desired quality or taste. Here at Ballarò you can feel the difference.

For over 1,000 years, the numerous stalls have been supplying the inhabitants of Palermo with freshly caught fish, seafood, meat and sausage, cheese, especially freshly made ricotta, vegetables, fruit, herbs, flowers and plants and much more.

Here you will find the best swordfish, tuna, squid and lobster in all of Sicily. The Sicilians like it fresh. Accordingly, fish and poultry are often still alive. And it's not just vegetables that are in season - as we learned, so is fishing.

There are stalls that are represented throughout the day. And there are stalls that only sell their wares in the morning, at lunchtime or in the afternoon. In spring, there is suddenly a small stall, squeezed in between the fishmongers, where an elderly couple sell their seeds, seedlings and herbs to customers.

This market also smells different. Fruit and vegetables, but above all the herbs, exude an intense fragrance. Whereas the freshly caught fish doesn't. At least in the morning 😉.

The taste is also special. It was only here in Sicily that I learned that artichokes have a fantastic taste. And I only know tomatoes of this quality in Germany from delicatessens at sinful prices.

The whole market is a singsong of different languages. In addition to Italian sounds, you can also hear Arabic or purely Sicilian dialects.

When things get particularly loud and heated, it is rarely a dispute, but usually the classic haggling over the price.

This market has its own rules. The prices are usually rounded up or down. But then there is always a give-away. Some things are also handled more freely. Cigarettes without tax stamps are still available here. And there is no need to doubt the authenticity of some of the stamps. The price says it all.

Tourists also come at lunchtime. Because the Ballarò is not only, but also stands for street food. Especially at lunchtime, locals and tourists mingle to sample the various delicacies. You can find a few tips in our street food article.

We were able to experience this for ourselves. To get to our vacation apartment, we have to use a small side street on Ballarò. However, every now and then a trader's vehicle gets in the way. We were therefore forced to drive through the market. Tables and benches were kindly pushed aside, scooters were cleared away and in the end I stood at our front door, sweaty but happy. Instead of the expected verbal abuse, we received a few kind words, "tranquillo". We had arrived.

As lively as the nearby market is during the day, the neighborhood is all the quieter at night. The cats are still there, guarding the market. Now it's their territory.

What makes the Ballarò so special? It's its different facets. Sometimes brilliant, sometimes not.

By the way, you will find our apartment in Palazzo Vetrano on the edge of Ballarò. Perfect for anyone who wants to explore Ballarò and the old town on foot. 

If you would like to find out more about the old town of Palermo, including tips & tricks, we recommend our article on the Centro Storico.