Day No. 16 - The ravages of time ... - Taladerc'h

We start with the sun, today "only" a short tour is planned. But we have learned on the last few tours that even short tours can be long in Brittany. - One thing is already certain, we will be back. Brittany takes time, a lot of time. If you like, you can hike around Brittany on foot on the GR® 34, the so-called customs officers' path. Over a distance of more than 2000 km, from Mont-Saint-Michel to the bridge of Saint-Nazaire, it winds along the coast of Brittany.

We set off today from Camping Gwel Kaër in the direction of Pointe des Espagnols. But we don't even make it 500 meters. We stop for the first time on the causeway before Le Fret to take photos of shipwrecks. This theme seems to be haunting us today.

On the sandy beach of Taladerc'h we come across the next wrecks, whose frames look like the ribs of a dinosaur skeleton.

Everywhere you look, you can see the decaying carcasses of ships. The once proud ships and boats have simply had their day. But the sun doesn't give melancholy a chance.

We continue along the D355, always parallel to the water. On the way we meet "Tim and Sruppi" or should I say TINTIN. Tintin is getting a bit long in the tooth and Sruppi has been replaced by a Jack Russell, Sruppi 5. - Both are traveling in their T1, year of construction 54. I just say AIR COOLED. - But what's wrong with Hector again? - No sooner has the sea air blown the last fleeting love out of his nose than he's already sniffing the next T1 exhaust pipe. - That's our Hector, in every harbor...

We drag Hector off and we are already on a small side road, the D355A, but this ends in the water right opposite the Île des Morts. A single lantern stands at the end of a sloping quay. With a view of the Isle of the Dead, a road that sinks into the sea seems a little gloomy. Nevertheless, I think I've found the perfect spot for the night ahead. But Torgit refuses. Why is that?

"Under the lantern, by the great sea

yes there is a Hector

And is he still standing in front of it

So let's meet there again

We want to stand by the lantern..."

Lili Marlene follows these lines and Torgit looks at me, puzzled. I'm not sure what she's more surprised about, my non-existent singing skills or the fact that I'm so sure of my words?

Sure, Dietrich would be turning in her grave, but I liked this interpretation.

We continue to the headland opposite Brest, the Pointe des Espagnols. This owes its name to a Spanish garrison. The Spanish built a fort here in 1594. German bunkers can also be found here. But we are disappointed by the view. But above all, it is deceptive. Especially if you look to the south-west onto a peninsula (approx. 1,800 m). Whether it is one of the most dangerous places in the world or the most threatening. It's debatable, but it's better to keep the peace. Because this is where the French Navy's nuclear submarines are loaded with the nuclear warheads for the sea-based intercontinental missiles before they set off again for the Atlantic and Pacific. "Paradises" can be so deceptive.

We drive on quickly, past Fort Robert. We stop again and walk along the coast and come across another old bunker. Climbing onto the roof of the bunker offers an incredible view.

But we still want to go to Camaret-sur-Mer. This port is also exciting: an old chapel, shipwrecks in front of it and next to it a marina with modern motorboats and sailing boats. Opposites attract.

We find our pitch for the night today at Camping Plage De Goulien, right on a kilometer-long sandy beach. But we won't get to that until tomorrow.