When the Cologne team arrives, they want to go straight out to sea. I take the opportunity and also borrow a board to get a first introduction. I love the sea, but do I also love surfing? I don't know, the water is choppy. But a surf instructor is training a small group on the reef. So I put on my wetsuit and get into the water. - My first impression? Similar to the day I stood on a SUP for the first time. The board was definitely not in my weight class. It was more like a submarine. But back then I at least managed to stand up, which I can't do today. I swallow a lot of water, but it was still great fun. I'll have to see where I can borrow a board that's more buoyant. Surely there will be professionals who can do it with a small board. But I need a bit more security. I can't say whether surfing is my sport or not. But I enjoyed it and had fun, despite the miserable conditions. That makes me optimistic. I also first learned to dive in a quarry pond and not in the Caribbean. I don't know if I would ever have explored a quarry pond if it had been the other way around.
When I get out of the water, I'm happy. - Afterwards, we explore a cool surfer store for a while. But I'm starting to get hungry. It's great that the ladies decide to go to a restaurant. The winding alleyways of Ericeira's old town, with their almost white cobblestones, offer ideal conditions for getting stuck in the van. That's why we give up on a direct drive to the restaurant after one or two attempts and prefer to leave Hector underneath an old chapel. With God's blessing, nothing will happen to him. From here, we walk through the old town and take a look at the harbor with a few old fishing boats. The restaurant turns out to be a nice burger joint. Nice and simple, the guys make a satisfied impression. - Now it's time to make our way to Sintra. Hector parks in the garden of an old house today, directly below and therefore in view of the Palácio Nacional da Pena. But this is not on our list of places to visit until later. We light the fireplace and drink a few glasses of wine together by the crackling fire.
When the fire is crackling, it's easy to become melancholy or optimistic. With a glass of wine in hand, it's easy to spin positive thoughts. Without us consciously addressing it, the topic of contentment and happiness also becomes an issue here.
Everyone involved in this conversation is aware of the luxury life we lead. We have the chance to travel, to live in a beautiful city, not only to have enough to eat. But also the freedom to choose: do we want organic, vegan or steak? Enjoying freedom is particularly easy after a day at the beach. If we're not happy now, when will we be?
As the evening draws to a close, we are glad to be able to move from the house back into the garden. Sleeping in your own bed is something else.
What was that again?
- First of all, clear the fireplace of the ashes from the previous day. As there are still some embers here, you have the opportunity to point out the risks of the fire
- Then collect as many dry branches as possible from dead trees, primarily conifers, for ignition.
- Make sure that the wood always cracks when breaking through.
- As far as possible, do not use wood in direct contact with the floor.
- Split larger wood with an axe.
- Prepare a match by drawing fine shavings on its edge with a knife.
- If available, rub the match with a little wax.
- Newspapers and other paper do not belong in nature or in the oven.
- Collect a few dry pine cones and, if you can find them, resin to facilitate ignition.
- Then layer the timbers to create a chimney effect.
- Put a ball of dry grass in the middle. The whole thing should be lit with a match; if necessary, have a lighter and a candle stub to hand.
I was told that the boys had done excellently. The one match was enough. I'm proud of them!
Als Belohnung geht es nun an den Strand. Wir wollen das mit dem Surfen noch ein wenig üben. Wie die beiden Jungs, werde auch ich heute „ans Händchen“ genommen. Unsere erste Aufgabe soll sein, es über das Weißwasser zu schaffen, dazu müssen wir die Brandungszone durchqueren. Bedeutet mit dem Board so weit ins Meer zu gehen, solange man einen sicheren Stand hat. Dann auf dem Brett kraulend durch die Wellen zu pflügen, bis diese nicht mehr brechen. Sobald eine Welle kommt, einen leichten Liegestütz auf dem Board, damit das Wasser zwischen Körper und Brett durch kann. – Das sieht leichter aus, als es ist. – Auf dem so genannten Grünwasser, ich hoffe die richtigen Begriffe zu benutzen, kann man sich dann ein wenig ausruhen. Ungebrochene Wellen zu surfen ist sicherlich der Traum jedes Surfanfängers. – Sicherlich habe ich mich katastrophal geschlagen. Doch vor allem habe ich eines gelernt. Das Gesicht mit den Armen zu schützen, wenn man vom Board fällt. Das Meer hat mehr Kraft. – Heute konnten mir die zwei zwölfjährigen Jungs etwas vormachen. Kennt ihr das? Solche Pimpfe lernen einfach schneller. Doch am Ende ging auch ich mit dem Gefühl eines kleinen Jungens aus dem Wasser. Es hat einfach richtig Spaß gemacht. – Doch das coolste kam überhaupt noch, denn am Strand saß Torgit, die ebenfalls ihre erste Surf-Stunde absolviert hatte. Das Lächeln auf ihrem Gesicht sprach Bände. Der Tag am Beach, war anstrengend, doch vor allem super-, supergeil.
Our makeshift outdoor shower proves its worth again today. Even though real surfers supposedly regard salt on the skin as exfoliation, we are happy to rinse it off. - We sit on the beach for a while and enjoy the sun. Just as we are looking for a place to spend the night, we receive a message from our Dutch friends. They have found a pitch in the forest near Sintra. We spontaneously decide to join them. When we arrive, it is already getting dark. As this happens quite quickly here, we first prepare our bunk. But then we have to eat something warm. Only now do we realize how hungry we are. Although today's meal is just a leftover from the previous day, it tastes terribly delicious.
We actually wanted to read a bit more, but after a few lines we realize that our eyes are slowly falling shut. Time to sleep.
Kurz vorm Einschlafen, denke ich mich noch einmal zurück auf’s Meer. Wenn es stimmt, dass „„The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun.“ – Phil Edwards – dann war ich schon richtig gut. 😉
Insight of the day: For me, I only go back into the green, unbroken waves when the take-off works in white water.
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