Right side view of a VW Californias in front of an old stone wall with a Croatian flag

The dogs of Rab

After two sunny days at Šimuni Camping Village on the island of Pag, we set off to explore the next island, it's Rab. Here we take a detour via the mainland, there is no direct connection between the islands. First we drive a little bit north. The road leads us through stony terrain. To the right and to the left of the road we see walls again and again, which delimit individual areas. - Suddenly we see an old fortress on the left side. On it the Croatian flag is flying. The right opportunity to take a nice picture of Hector with the flag in the background. I drive onto the area and park the van directly in front of the fortress. About 100m further there is another house. I get out and walk around the van to find the ideal perspective for the photo. Just as I think I have found it, I notice or hear how a pack of dogs rushes towards me. You can see that they do not understand any fun. This is their territory. Now it is a matter of who reaches the door of the bulli first? - In the last second I can save myself behind the wheel. - For today I go as a winner from the place. The dogs follow us a few meters and then turn back. From the outside I can still make my photo, but inside is their realm. With the good feeling to have saved my skin, we drive on.

In the north-east of Pag a small ferry leads from Prizna to the mainland near Gradina. We do not have to wait long. However, this is often different during the vacation season. For us, the small stay offers the chance to look into the harbor basin. We can clearly see how crystal clear the water is here, because the bottom, which is about 10m deep, is easily visible.

Our trip to the mainland is only short. Already at Stinica we take a ferry to Mišnjak and thus to the island of Rab, located north of Pag. Once there, we are drawn to the sea. We look for a way off the main road. Soon we find a small stony path. I trust Hector and we try our luck. Torgit looks a bit skeptical. But we find a beautiful place and first roll out the awning. Time for an extensive breakfast. In between two quads and a car pass by. So we have to roll up the awning in between.

Now it's time to explore the sea. We climb over the rocks into the water. Here, too, the water is crystal clear. Again we see quite a few sea urchins, which supposedly no longer exist here.

White van parked on the roadside, sea to the right
White van with 2 chairs under awning parked on the roadside next to the sea
White VW California with high roof and chairs under extended awning at Šimuni Camping Village

Suitably invigorated and refreshed, we decide to explore the port town of Rab, located on the west coast of the island. Due to its many churches and town squares a really worth seeing place. The influence of the Romans is still omnipresent.

View over the red roofs of the port town of Rab

Obwohl dicht an der Insel Pag gelegen, ist Rab gänzlich anders. Das Eiland ist deutlich stärker besiedelt. Während Pag an eine Mondlandschaft erinnert, ist Rab eine grüne Insel mit üppigster Vegetation. Rab wirkt auch eleganter und feiner als die Nachbarinsel. Angeblich war die Insel deshalb ein beliebter Tummelplatz für den Adel. Fakt ist, dass der englische König Edward VIII. der Insel häufiger seinen Besuch abstattete. Hier soll er und seine Gattin Wallis ungeniert sämtliche Hüllen fallen lassen haben. „Des Königs neue Kleider“ passte jedoch in diesem Falle nicht ganz, blieb Edward VIII. doch ungekrönt. Angeblich ist es jedoch ihm zu verdanken, dass Rab den ersten FKK-Strand an der Adria eröffnete – und das bereits im Jahr 1936! – Von wegen Punta Skala. 

We definitely enjoyed the stroll through medieval old town flair. Especially an ice cream. So we decide to drive a little further north. Faster than we thought we are in Lopar and thus the northern tip of the island. What now? - Look for a place here or cross over to Krk? We decide to go on the ferry. This means first buying tickets, then joining a long queue and waiting. That's what we do. Since it is still warm, we open the windows. A pleasant breeze refreshes us. But when it is time to take off, I find that the breeze has blown away not only the sultriness, but also our ticket. But how does the Kölsch say? Wat fott es, es fott, means in High German "What's gone is gone," or don't lament things and don't mourn things long forgotten. I haven't forgotten the ticket yet. But now it's time to spur Torgit on. She runs once again to the ticket counter, I roll to just before the ferry, then I have to stop. Slowly one vehicle after the next passes me. In the ticket office the queue for the next ferry has already formed. But I can rely on Torgit. Shortly before closing time, we are the last to board the ferry.

Insight of the day: Et hätt noch emmer joot jejange.

Restaurant tables in a narrow alley in the old town Rabs
Church tower in the old town Rabs
White van on ferry to Rab
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