Day No. 38 - The Tower of Hercules - Torre de Hércules - A Coruña

This morning is gray, the sea breaks on the cliffs and once again makes us realize that the sea cannot be tamed.

Orientation is therefore the be-all and end-all on the open sea, and not just on stormy nights. Beacons, and later lighthouses, have therefore always had a special significance in seafaring. But the Hercules Tower built by the Romans in the northern Spanish city of A Coruña, at whose feet we are standing in the early morning, is a very special lighthouse. Built in the 2nd century AD, it has not only been preserved but is still in use today. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site for ten years now. Perhaps this will ensure that it is preserved for future generations. 

We let the sea work its magic on us for a while, then we start our next stage. - Today we are heading to Santiago de Compostela. We want to see the end point of the Camino de Santiago, which we have crossed again and again over the last few days, with our own eyes. We are less interested in the supposed burial place of the biblical apostle James, whose mortal remains are said to be kept here.

Of course, we also want to take a look at the cathedral, but we find the pilgrims entering the city more exciting. Various pilgrimage routes not only here in Spain, but also from Germany, Austria, Switzerland, France and Italy end here. We want to explore the Caminho Portugues, a coastal hiking trail in Portugal, ourselves. - We find it particularly fascinating that the number of pilgrims has increased significantly in recent years. Whereas in the year 2,000, around 50,000 pilgrims reached the city, the number has now increased more than sixfold. - Is it perhaps because everything seems to be happening even faster? Are we longing for inner peace? - We don't know, but one thing seems certain: positive energy is generated here. This seems to be palpable around the cathedral. There is a lot of laughter and people seem to be beaming. We happen to witness a couple of pilgrims having their photo taken right in front of the cathedral, and suddenly he sinks to his knees in front of her. Although we don't understand what he is asking, we and everyone around us realize that this is the question of all questions. As they both sink into each other's arms, it becomes clear that he has been heard. Suddenly, the whole square begins to resound with the clapping of hands. - We look for a sunny spot and take in the cathedral, the Obradoiro square, as it is called, but above all the pilgrims.

Afterwards, we stroll through the alleyways of the old town. Everything looks touristy, but also relaxed. The gardens in front of the buildings, for example in front of the San Martín Pinario Museum, are wonderfully relaxing. - As we are already feeling hungry, we spontaneously stop off at El Papatorio. According to Tripadvisor, this is number 41 out of 612 restaurants in the city. We have a few tapas at the bar. Our recommendation for the main course: change the restaurant, the tapas looked as if they had been here for a long time. The restaurant is friendly and chic, but the mood of the staff is contrary. There is no sign of the otherwise positive energy of the city here. 

Our destination is therefore the restaurant La Jefatura, in Av. de Figueroa 1, No. 6 according to Tripadvisor - it was worth the trip, we are a little early, but we are allowed to take a seat at the bar. The bar soon fills up. The atmosphere here is friendly and relaxed. The bar is mainly occupied by Spaniards. We take this as a good sign. Apart from us, a Swiss man is sitting at the bar with his daughter. The two of them have been on a pilgrimage for a week. Apparently Hagen, as the pilgrim is called, was more concerned with the physical well-being of the tour than with his salvation. In general, I imagined a pilgrim to be different. At least more taciturn. But man is what he is. - During the third wine, he grumbles a little about German politics. - So much for the oh-so-neutral Switzerland. - We don't let the mood dampen.

The food is excellent, the beer and wine are delicious, what more could we want? - We head back to Hector in a relaxed mood.